They might reinstate those Orchid Room dinners in early 2022. They didn’t charge chefs during the pandemic, but recently instituted a fee system. “If that’s a concept I hope to develop in the future, it’s nice to know that people will come.”įair Isle’s owners aren’t sure how long their status as popup proving ground will last. She and Santos are looking, casually, at spaces: “We’d actually love to open a Musangtino’s brick-and-mortar,” says Miranda. It was fun, says Miranda, but it was also R&D-a chance to dial in their dishes. Their presence throughout the summer turned Tuesdays into prime time. She called him up: “Do you want to do this every other week? We’ll just kick it, grill burgers.” “Also their product is incredible.”īefore her restaurant, Musang-before the Bon Appetit videos, the New York Times think pieces, and ahem, a few magazine covers-Miranda had devised a comfort food menu with Jeff Santos, a friend from growing up who now owns Wow Wow Lemonade. The brewery was so accommodating, she says. The chef remembers being impressed with Karachi Cowboys’ setup. “We don’t want every single day of the week to be burgers and beer.”įair Isle wasn't afraid of big asks they also slid into Melissa Miranda's DMs. “Nobody wants a line of 15 people waiting for their order.” They also seek variety. They do interviews and tastings, but the real indicator of success, he says, are operations that can handle a crowd. “There’s a lot of turnover, and rightly so.” Now, he and Barker rely on word of mouth to fill the calendar. Most participants stay six months or less, says Pogue, the brewery’s co-owner. The preparation honed at Fair Isle will be central to a future brick-and-mortar spot, says co-owner Zachary Pacleb. did a stint serving fried chicken sandwiches-not an option at their usual farmers market stalls. It also snowballed into an inadvertent incubator. From there, he recalls, “it snowballed into something big and fun.” Wilcenski compiled a list of friends with popups for Fair Isle’s owners. But by the end of the summer, Rough Draft had acquired a food cart down in Portland (a Seattle bar is in the works). Seattle wanted to comfort itself with burgers, and Rough Draft’s tavern-style creations were worth fumbling your way through new concepts like “ordering in advance online” and “waiting in a line six feet apart.” The fandom came on fast. The menu-Filipinx spaghetti, a play on the Jollibee burger, and another lumpia-inspired patty of shrimp and pork-debuted at Fair Isle after a three-year hiatus.Ī few factors contributed to the brewery's double life as a popup incubator: permit prosaics, the food-friendly nature of Fair Isle’s signature beer style, and a dash of pandemic timing. In January, she revived Musangtino’s, the popup she once ran with longtime friend Jeff Santos. This year, even Melissa Miranda was there, setting aside her regularly scheduled grueling restaurant routine at Musang to flip burgers on the driveway grill.
By the end of the year, Lupe Flores was frying her Lebanese-Mexican crunchy tacos, while Sundays were all about Karachi Cowboys’ Pakistani soul food. with their shio koji fried chicken and kimchi queso. First came last summer’s breakout favorite Rough Draft Burger Shop, smashing its patties to rapt crowds. But the Ballard taproom claims an unusual concentration of great ones.
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